First Run: From Box to a Fully Operational Aquarium

This guide takes you from unboxing Oquari to having the controller running on your network, with an access code set and an aquarium profile selected. The entire process takes 20–40 minutes and requires no electrical expertise or opening of enclosures—you connect everything like standard appliances and configure it via your phone.

What You Need

Oquari Core (the main controller)—and if you have them, the Oquari Power module (with power sockets) and Oquari Sense module (for sensors),
The included connection cable for linking modules,
A smartphone or laptop with Wi-Fi.

Step 1: Position and Connect Modules

Place the modules in the cabinet under the aquarium or beside it—away from areas where water might drip.
Connect them using one cable (included): Core → Power → Sense. That’s all—the modules recognize each other automatically; no configuration is needed at this stage.
Plug your 230 V aquarium devices (filter, light, heaters) into the sockets on the power module—just like a standard power strip. Heaters have two specially marked, protected sockets.
Connect level sensors, flow meters, temperature probes, and leak detectors to the labeled terminals on the Oquari Core. The connectors are keyed for different sensor types, so you cannot plug them in incorrectly.

Safety First: All control electronics and sensors operate at safe low voltage. 230 V is confined within the power module, which is enclosed and kept away from water.

Step 2: Initial Power-On and Network Setup

Connect the power supply. The Core’s display will show a welcome screen.
A fresh controller does not yet know your network, so it broadcasts its own Wi-Fi network. On your phone, connect to the network named Oquari-XXXX.
Your phone will automatically open the configuration page (similar to hotel Wi-Fi setup). Select your home Wi-Fi network and enter the password—or simply use an Ethernet cable if you prefer a wired connection.
The controller joins your network. From now on, you can access the local panel in your browser at oquari-XXXX.local.

Step 3: Setup Wizard—Aquarium Type and Presets

The panel will guide you through the initial setup wizard:

Language and access code for the panel (set this immediately to protect your configuration from accidental changes by others on your home network).
Aquarium type: freshwater, planted, or marine—and the tank volume. Based on this, Oquari applies tested presets: temperature thresholds, top-off behavior, lighting schedules, and safety protections.
Detected modules—the wizard shows what it found (power module, sensor module). If something is missing, check your cable connections.
Temperature probe pairing—the wizard will ask you to “immerse the first probe in warmer water.” This assigns which probe measures tank water and which might measure a sump or reserve tank. No guessing numbers or IDs.
Socket names—“filter,” “heater,” “light”… Choose from the list or enter your own. These names will appear everywhere: on the display, in the web panel, and in Home Assistant.
Sensor calibration (if you have a sensor module)—you can do this immediately with the wizard or skip it and return later.
oquari.com account (optional)—if you want remote viewing and notifications, log in to oquari.com, select “add device,” and enter the 6-digit code from the panel into the website. Without an account, the controller works 100% locally.

Step 4: The First Day

Monitor the dashboard on the display or web panel: temperature, levels, socket status.
Test safety features “dry”: briefly remove a level sensor from the water—the heaters should lock out, and the controller will trigger an alarm. Reinsert the sensor and acknowledge the alarm.
Energy monitoring begins learning your devices’ normal consumption patterns—after a few days, diagnostics will start detecting anomalies (clogged filter, weakening pump).

What’s Next

The controller is running and ready for fine-tuning. Subsequent steps are covered in separate guides: ATO top-off, heater safety features, automatic water changes, pH-triggered CO₂, dosing, light ramps, and Home Assistant integration.

Najczęstsze pytania

Do I need an internet connection for the controller to work?

No. The Oquari controller runs all automation locally on the device itself. An internet connection is only required if you choose to use remote monitoring via the oquari.com service. If your internet goes down, your aquarium automation continues to function normally without interruption.

Can I add or remove modules later?

Yes. The system is modular and designed for expansion. You can connect additional modules like Oquari-PWR or Oquari-Sense at any time using the included RJ45 cables. The controller will automatically detect new modules, and you can configure them through the web panel without restarting the system.

Is it safe to plug high-power devices like heaters directly into the unit?

Yes. The Oquari-PWR module is designed to handle standard aquarium equipment, including heaters. It features dedicated, protected sockets for heating elements with independent safety cut-offs. If a heater malfunctions or sticks on, the system detects the abnormal current draw and cuts power to prevent overheating.

How does the automatic water change feature work?

You set a single value for how many liters you want changed per week. The controller then divides this into small, frequent doses throughout the day—for example, removing and replacing 0.45 liters every 30 minutes. This gradual approach maintains stable water parameters and avoids the shock of large, infrequent water changes.

Does Oquari integrate with Home Assistant?

Yes, natively. Oquari uses MQTT Discovery to automatically appear in Home Assistant as a set of entities once connected to the same network. No cloud accounts or complex configuration are needed. You can monitor and control your aquarium directly from your existing smart home dashboard.